Resting; Saturday!

LIFE:

Wednesday was a great day; Pongal, the Hindu harvest festival day, meant that all the schools were off and the streets were alive with children, India's future cricket team. The kids are great and you're always met with a beaming smile and "Hi". They are quite poor, but they are very, very happy.

The lights were on in Mysore Palace. A sight that just has to be seen if you are here:

Housemate Jorg & I were invited up to the landlord's family home for lunch. His wife let us know that she "cooks for God", and it does pay dividends. The meal was very cooling, and extremely tasty. A really nice variation on the multitude of curries that we have been eating.

Their house is located just 5 minutes from Gurugi's old shala, so we took a walk there in the midday sun. I couldn't resist these snaps of some local road signs:

THIS ONE IS COMPLETELY IGNORED.

"No Honking"

AND THIS ONE:

Is it for the Americans? 

"There is oil over here"

Todays trip to the bank was quite memorable too. I had a hundred pounds in travelers cheques that I wanted to change for rupees. I went to the Mysore State Bank, which is very close to the Shala, next door in fact. I got plucked from a queue of local folk and told to go and see the manager. I just did what I was told, and got ushered behind the counters and seated next to the manager's desk. As a bank clerk filled out the forms necessary to complete the transaction, the manager asked a number of questions, including: "Why have you come to Gokulam?", "Can you learn yoga in England?", "How are you finding the Indian people?"  .......... There was a dozen or so more, and none of them related to banking, or my transaction at all. He was just a very, very nice guy, and perhaps a little pleased to take a break from his day-job. I ended up getting 5 rupees over the published rate too. I bet if I phoned them, I would be speaking to them too; and not a call centre in England (yet).

THE PRACTICE:

The thing about this practice, if you are following the guidelines, is that it sure does help you appreciate a rest! The feeling on Friday evening was like Christmas all over again.

Each 'practice week' (Sunday - Friday, excluding moondays) begins and ends with a led class. That has become my chance to lock each movement to each inhale, or exhale. This makes some of the postures noticeably easier, and so often gets totally overlooked by teachers that are not certified or authorized in the teaching of this system (or, God help us, don't even have a practice themselves!).

Mysore style practices here, support a constant throughput of practitioners who arrive in 15 minute intervals and then get guidance on an individual basis. Both Saraswati and Sharath do this extremely well, in light of that huge number of students that are in town at this point in time. I know a couple of people who are in the 4.45 a.m. group, who overslept yesterday morning. So, they attended the 6.00 a.m. class. Sharath spotted this in both instances. How on earth does he do that? There are over 200 people here at the moment!

With this huge number of students, the led classes can therefore get VERY busy. Yesterdays led class saw people practicing in the Shala doorway, and in the changing areas however, people in the changing areas were moved so's to be in Sharath's line of sight. They were not left unattended. Becoming a slacker is not an option here.

CHANTING:

We are on the sixth class now and, boy, it is fun. There is less mumbling, more people, and we can now apparently be heard from some way up the street. Lakshmish (sp) is a great leader and gives interesting bits of philosophy and general 'thought material'  with each class. I've also opted for a new course with him, to work through Patanjali's Yoga Sutras. So, the week now comprises of 6 morning asana practices, less moon-days,  3 evening chant classes and 3 morning Sutra lectures. There is plenty to do here and each of the 'add-ons' is costing £10 for the whole course. As one of my friends said, back in the days that I was nervous about coming here, 'This is Disneyland for Yogi's'.

These classes help to deepen your practice. They focus you on more than asana practice. The yamas, niyamas etc. all inter-relate and work together as yoga.

Finally, for today, a tan check. I want to be able to look back at the Dec. 24th entry, and spot the difference after just 16 days here. This isn't the result of sun bathing either, but I do have to admit; I like my apartment's balcony.

It is 8.20 a.m. now, on Saturday morning. A car just beeped for 8 seconds outside the apartment. During those 8 seconds, 2 more vehicles gave short beeps. My Mum would just go nuts here.

"One More 7.30"

LIFE:

Captain's log; Star date...God knows! I've lost track of time, and on three occasions, have had to calculate the day of the week. That's kind of nice after 35 years at work in the UK. I'm feeling more native now and I know a bunch of shop keepers, coffee house owners and even one of the rickshaw drivers regularly careers passed me and shouts, "Hi Steve".

There was an accident right outside my balcony yesterday. A rickshaw hit a motorbike. The problem being that everyone beeps here. So both the bike and the rickshaw got so into their beeping contest, that they just drove into each other. Fortunately, it was right outside the hospital. Unfortunately, it's the same hospital that 'helped' me with my ears on day 1.

I spent a chunk of time sitting on my balcony, drinking tea and reading another book, that I found in Mysore, on the life of Krishnamacharya. His life story fascinates me. All 102 years of it. For the uninitiated, he was the teacher for so many of today's living Guru's including Sri K Pattabhi Jois, and BKS Iyengar. Historians often note him for his ability to stop his heartbeat for 2 minutes. I find his ability to heal almost untreatable conditions using asana & pranayama even more

interesting.  

TRUE  'CAR'MA

One of many little houses, that lights up so beautifully when you walk to a restaurant at dusk. I guess an appropriate term would be 'Shantih Town' (peace):

Other Mysore antics, since I last wrote, include getting 2 pairs of trousers made, in 24 hours and for 900 rupees for both pairs. That's £13.23 at today's exchange rate (our pound is also close to stopping it's heartbeat!). Anyway, the trousers are just wonderful in fit, styling and quality. When you come here, travel light on the inbound flight.

There are many, many of my friends here from Hamish's London Shala. It is great to share the lunches, sip coffee and just trade what we know of the hidey-holes around town.

THE PRACTICE:

The six consecutive led-primary classes are done. We started on Monday, following full moon Sunday, with another one and Saraswati led us through this one. Sharath took a breather as he then followed our class, with a second series talk through. We had the opportunity to sit and quietly watch this, but I passed on that because of the large numbers and I didn't want to miss my coconut juice. I did note though, how many senior teachers are here in Mysore. David Swenson, Annie Pace & Noah are all here. It was strange chatting to David as we got changed because I haven't heard his voice since I bought his dvd as a beginner about 7 years ago.

Saraswati's talk through was every bit as tough as Sharath's. Indian stretchable time is the eternity between 4.......................and 5.

Now the led-primary's are done, it is Mysore self-practice. You are given a space at your allocated time, and you practice up to where you may have been stopped, or do full primary if not. Sharath does not miss a thing, despite the large numbers and, although he has done his practice before first light, and taught since 4.45 a.m., the glint in his eyes shows that he loves it. I was told not to lift my heels when coming up to standing from the back-bend "bad habit" he said with a smile. I flew up in the final one. He was right. He's always right.

5th Practice Day.......

Editing Note: Sorry but no pics., today. There was another power-cut when I wrote this, so I did it in 'Word'. The Blog's editing facility really hates cutting and pasting and I've had to wing it a bit. Photos won't import for some reason. Ah well... Tomorrow is another day.

LIFE

I think I’m adjusting to the local way of life now and starting to feel really comfortable with the psyche of the locals. I’ve spent a lot of time in Thailand and, in the tourist areas; everybody seems to want a piece of you. It takes a long, long time before they become invisible to you and you feel that you can function normally. Here in Gokulam though, it’s not like that. Those that ask for money, or business, seem more genuinely needy. You feel less of a need to be on the defensive. When faced with a short wait while, say, someone runs out for change, they’re keen to know where you are from and if you are enjoying India. They generally then add to your list of things to do by throwing in some recommendations.

 

The novelty value of this place continues to entertain, even once you are settled. It’s naturally entertaining to walk down a busy street, dodging motorbikes, auto-rickshaws and buses, yet come across one woman, easily in her eighties, herding 10 or 15 goats. Colours stand out too because 80% is dusty grey but the 20% balance are of almost cartoon quality.

 

I’d better write about food soon, because life here revolves around the delicious vegetarian dals, the butter nans and the dosas. It’s easy to fill your belly for one pound. Where are we going wrong in the UK? It seems that there is no culinary creativity anymore. Maybe sunshine expands mind.

 

PRACTICE

For Primary Series practitioners, here are some observations that I’ve noted from Sharath’s current teaching:

• No more Pashimottanasana B (Hands over feet)
• No more Baddha Konasana C (No rest for the wicked)
• No more dropping the head back and arching the spine in between Yoga Mudra & Padmasana.

 

The breath counts are different in the finishing sequence too. I was taught 25 breaths in Salamba Sarvangasana (Shoulderstand), Sirsasana (Headstand)*, Padmasana (Lotus)  & Utpluthi, then 10 breaths for the other finishing postures. Sharath is currently using 10 for the long holds and 8 for the shorter ones. Don’t forget though, that he counts slowwwwwwly.

 

CHANTING

The chant class was just great. The charge for it is 700 rupees and that’s for 12 thirty-minute classes that are spread over the month.  We chanted solidly in Sanskrit throughout that time and all materials were included. The uninitiated might gripe “what’s the use of that?” but actually it is a work out for the mind. In my opinion, whatever part of the mind it is that produces worries, stress, doubt & negativity gets dampened when you chant and 30 minutes puts some sunshine into your life.

 

On a lighter note, the incredibly knowledgeable chap that is leading us through the chants is a dead ringer for a Bollywood Mr Bean. No offence intended.

4th Practice Day......

LIFE:

I went walking yesterday afternoon, and took the camera as there is so much 'unique-ness' about this place. The camera is a digital SLR so, not in the slightest bit discrete. Some places I have been invite this to be a problem but here in Mysore, it just works. Most Indian people, both young, middle-aged and old just love to be photographed, and the most bizarre thing is that they aren't interested in seeing the photo. They just want to smile and pose.

Now I am back in stereo, as on day 4, I got back the use of both ears, the street sounds are also unique. Cars and auto-rickshaws beep on every opportunity, mostly to say "Hey, in about 10 seconds, I could bump into you, if you just stood still". 

Cows, goats (and this morning, pigs) also roam around with no obvious owner.

I tried hard to get a close up of a chicken that had previously been following me down the small, dusty street. But it soon stopped following me and never did get itself lined up for a portrait; much to the amusement of this local lady!

While on the senses, I have also never known so many smells in one place. Incense, food, burning wood just drift around like invisible clouds, yet there don't seem to be any putrid 'drainy' smells.

THE PRACTICE:
So, that is the fourth consecutive led Primary class to Sharath's lonnnnnnnnng counting. My body is feeling stronger, well, it did this morning.

I left the Vinay's guest house at 5.30 and sat quietly on the shala steps, with everyone else, until the door opened at 6.15 to let the 4.45 shift leave. This mornings walk, before sunrise, was quite memorable because as Jorg (my house-mate) and myself strolled up towards the Mysore Bank, 5 or 6 pigs, along with their piglets, stampeded across the street, taking us both by complete surprise. 

Being 4 in now, Sharath no longer gives me that feeling that I've had all week, when he walks in and announces Samastithi (ready to move forward). The previous 3 reminded me of how I used to feel when my 6 foot something maths teacher used to put the exam paper in front of me. Now I'm more in tune to what we are about to go through. In fact, his humour is unique. A few times, people transpose from up-dog into down-dog before 'pooncha'(5), which leaves us all on hold while he asks "why are you rushing? Do you have to go somewhere?".

With the elevated temperature and compounded energy, the practice feels a-mazing. Other things must be helping too i.e. the wonderful local vegetarian diet that would satisfy anyone that enjoys Indian foods, (so long as they wash their hands) and also the fact that the days can be spent resting if you feel that way inclined.

As we do the series and, day by day, things change in your asana's, Gurugi's words really make sense. It truly is an internal practice,......... internal practice.

Sirsasana (headstand) is still defeating me because it falls at the end of the series, and that wretched counting to 25 is an  easy 50 of my breaths (and I thought I had a long breath!)

There is an opportunity to enrol for a chanting course at the shala today. It will run at 5.30 p.m. (phew!) on Monday, Wednesday & Friday for the month. 

While registering, the Indian Asana class was going on. There were 7 people of mixed age and ability doing their Mysore style practice. It would've been nice to just watch but, as anticipated, it is against the rules. Fair enough.

1st Practice day.....

LIFE:

Sleep came really easily last night, though I did wake up three times feeling that I was late for the practice. This was at about 11.30, 2.30 & 3.30. Each of these wake-ups was followed by that lovely 'bed time' feeling so it was like getting three nights for the price of one i.e. not a problem!

Problems do exist though, and my main one was a judgmental error that i made yesterday when I went to a hospital to enquire about getting my ears syringed. They've been getting blocked intermittently and I thought this was an opportunity to get it resolved, as I have time on my hands now. Big mistake! I was marched right into a side room, and a doctor (at least I assume he was a doctor) poked around, very painfully, with a cotton bud. I could have done that myself, but I know it's a no-no and, heck, I do wish I had told him to stop! I went into that hospital with 90% good hearing, and I came out with about 30%. The main worry is that it didn't get better overnight and, right now, I'm living in a very quiet world, waiting for it to improve. On the plus side, I do not have any pain or even remote signs of infection. I hope it stays that way. I want the respiration and heat of the daily practice to clear it up, & quickly!

PRACTICE:

It is a long time since I did a led Primary class and Sharath does it in a way that not many can do, or do do! 

Not a breath was missed and the 5 breath holds, when counted at a regular and slow pace, make you work hard in many of the postures. I guess when you do self practice, there's a tendency to breath slowly and restfully when in Downward Dog or a seated posture and, breath shorter faster breaths when working a hard pose (balancing or simply holding one of your personally challenging postures). Sharath counts as regular as clockward, which takes you to heaven at some points and almost to hell (if you think about it), in others. So, I tried not to think about it. The halfway hold for headstand (Sirsasana) defeated me. The space between 4 & 5 caused me to surrender today.

I also came away realising that I 'roll back' too often in the last third of the series. We were told "lay down", many times when 'old me' would normally roll back into, say, Shoulderstand (Salamba Sarvangasana). 'New me' has work to do on that one, so I'm going to focus on that for a while, and the bandha that's needed to get the lifts when you lay down first.

This was the first of 6 led Primary classes, and Sharath closed it by explaining the reason for all these talk-throughs, and to make the ground rules clear:

• Practitioners who are told to stop at any given point, must do so daily until they are moved forward again by him. Those that were stopped, sat quietly on their mats and then re-joined for back-bending at Urdhva Danurasana. It's a chance to address all of your weak points with the expanded energy budget that a shortened practice offers and, I think this is what will turn an 'okay' practice into one of those hypnotizing 'floaty' ones.
  
• The other thing I learned today was no bags or belongings are to remain in the Shala. I had to weave my way through about 30 Trikonana's into the changing area, as Sharath found the bag behind my mat (excusable, I hope, as it was my first ever practice there!).
  
• The last announcement was a reminder that Sunday is a moonday, and there is also no practice on Monday for a reason that I didn't catch (deaf as a post!).
  

Arriving & Signing On......

So, the travel was tiring, but relatively trouble-free. A failure of the power supply on the coach was an initial concern (after all, I didn't even get to Heathrow airport yet!) but, hey, a new coach arrived in 10 minutes. Phew! It was 24 hours from start to finish, but the entertainment system on BA 747's made the 9.5 hour daytime flight quite tolerable. Three movies, one of which was excellent and another two that supported the power-naps made it that way.

It's my first time in India. I don't count an earlier visit to Dhaka, which did soften the blow because the poverty there outstrips that of this part of India.

We took a taxi from Bangalore to Mysore. Hamish had pointed out that there was no view from the Shatabdi Express and it also involved another unwelcome dose of waiting. So we got the view from the taxi, which included a slow & beautiful sunrise, many kamikazi trained pedestrians including those who urinate openly on the roadside, I guess, for that all-over suntan.

I think you get chai (tea) on the train though....

After a stroll around Gokulam, which is so much tinier than I had imagined, we had to sign-on at 15.30, which was well co-ordinated by Nancy, who assisted Sharath with the enrollments. Sharath told us that this weeks programme consists of 6 consecutive primary series talk-throughs and we were asked to arrive for practice at 6.00 a.m. Those who were practicing at the Shala in December were to arrive at 4.45, and we were the second set. 

The Shala is just beautiful and full of energy and spirit. This is all starting to feel very real...........

5 Days.....

Plenty to do before Friday (fly-day) so this is the final stretch I guess. There's bound to be stuff about the UK that I'll miss, but the weather isn't on that list. It has been like the Russian front this week.

It has been quite a few years since I have visited somewhere 'new', that is, somewhere that I've never been before, and it's an exciting feeling. I hope it's like what I know about Asia. We in the West seem to live & work with a lot of anxiety & stress, which doesn't appear to be case elsewhere. The 'simple life' approach that seems to take hold, when you spend any length of time in Asia, is nice. Bye bye to sub-zero temperatures and towns where you need a permit or money to park on the road side.

I guess I am going to have to tolerate the HGV's a little longer though!

Anyway, that has pretty much addressed the 'won't miss' list.

On the 'will miss' list are, of course, friends, family and colleagues. The people make this place what it is. 

I'm going to really miss the shala too. I know it's been said before, but when you get amongst a bunch of people so dedicated to their practice, over a long period of time, they become friends, yet you barely ever say a word. It is quite profound. I have put it down as a classic illustration of 'satsang'; i) 'The company of the 'highest truth' ii) The company of a guru and iii) Company with assembly of persons who listen, talk about, and assimilate the truth (source: Wikipedia).